Hiszpania z plecakiem: co, gdzie, za ile czyli informacje praktyczne

Operacja Iberia zakończyła się pomyślnie ponad 3 miesiące temu. Podróżując z plecakiem przemierzyłam 3000 km, odwiedzając 19 miast i miejscowości w ciągu 32 dni. Koniec podróży, koniec zwiedzania i najlepszej na świecie lekcji portugalskiej i hiszpańskiej kultury. Ale zostają wspomnienia i cenna wiedza na temat podróżowania po tych krajach, którą, z uwagi na liczne prośby mailowe, postanowiłam się podzielić. Na początek Hiszpania.

KOSZTY

Ceny w Hiszpanii, mimo, że wyższe niż w Polsce, nie należą do wygórowanych w porównaniu z innymi krajami Europy Zachodniej. Jak wszędzie, jeżeli się postaramy, możemy sporo zaoszczędzić, np. zaopatrując się w tańszych supermarketach jak np. El Dia.

W mojej podróży całościowe dzienne wydatki wynosiły średnio 30-35 euro, na co składały się noclegi, jedzenie, wstępy i przejazdy w opcji niskobudżetowej, ale dalekiej od oszczędzania za wszelką cenę. Kwotę tę można obniżyć o ok. 5-10 euro, jeśli będziemy gotować we własnym zakresie i rezerwować noclegi z dużym wyprzedzeniem – ja z reguły szukałam noclegów na miejscu lub rezerwowałam dzień lub dwa przed przyjazdem. Warto dodać, że podróżowałam w maju, który nie uchodzi za pełnię sezonu.

TRANSPORT

Sieć transportu publicznego w Hiszpanii jest dobrze rozbudowana i generalnie nie ma problemu z dojazdem do bardziej popularnych miejsc. Pociągi są dość komfortowe, ale nieco droższe od autobusów (zależnie od trasy) i często nie zatrzymują się w mniejszych miejscowościach. Mimo to warto rozważyć opcję pociągu, szczególnie na dłuższych, kilkugodzinnych trasach choćby z uwagi na lepszy komfort jazdy. Wybrane połączenia kolejowe są tańsze, jeżeli dokonamy zakupu przez internet z dużym, kilkutygodniowym wyprzedzeniem. Autobusy są wygodne, z reguły klimatyzowane i szeroko dostępne.
Warto śledzić połączenia w internecie i decydować się na środek transportu zależnie od trasy – kolej http://www.renfe.es, połączenia autobusowe http://www.alsa.es oraz strony lokalnych przewoźników dominujących w danym regionie. Dla przykładu regularny pociąg z Madrytu do Walencji kosztuje, zależnie od daty zakupu, od €50 do €80, ale możemy zdecydować się na kolej regionalną gdzie, podróż trwa co prawda aż 6-7 godzin, ale za to kosztuje jedyne 25 euro!

Warto pamiętać, że jeżeli wybieramy się na jednodniowa wycieczkę (np. z Madrytu do Toledo), to warto zakupić bilet ‚ida y vuelta’, czyli w 2 strony, który jest zwykle tańszy.

Przykładowe ceny przejazdów:

  • Sewilla Kadyks – około €12 (autobus)
  • Kadyks-Ronda €14 (autobus)
  • Ronda-Grenada €13,50 (pociąg)
  • Grenada-Madryt ok. €16 (autobus)
  • Madryt-Toledo €8,40 (autobus w dwie strony)
  • Valencia-Madryt €25 (autobus)

Samochód jest korzystną opcją jeżeli podróżujemy w grupie – podróżując w pojedynkę lub w dwie osoby po podliczeniu kosztów (cena wynajmu + ubezpieczenie + paliwo + ewentualna dopłata za oddanie pojazdu w innej lokalizacji) możemy zapłacić sporo więcej niż korzystając ze środków transportu publicznego. Z drugiej jednak strony samochód daje możliwość zobaczenia miejsc, które, podróżując autobusem czy pociągiem możemy jedynie podziwiać przez szybę, jeśli mamy szczęście.

NOCLEGI

Hiszpania oferuje całą gamę miejsc noclegowych – od schronisk młodzieżowych i hosteli po hostale, pensjonaty i hotele. Znów sprawdza się stara prawda, iż bardziej opłaca się podróżować w grupie, niż w pojedynkę – w Hiszpanii można znaleźć wiele pensjonatów i hostali, które liczą sobie za pokój a nie osobę, czyli jeżeli dzielimy z kimś pokój – płacimy ok. €25-35 za noc za dwie osoby – cenę zbliżoną do kosztu pokoju jednoosobowego. Opcję hostali i pensjonatów warto rozważyć szczególnie w mniejszych miastach, gdzie baza noclegowa jest uboższa.

Z punktu widzenia backpackera najciekawszą opcją są hostele młodzieżowe, których pełno jest w Hiszpanii. Po pierwsze oferują one dość korzystną cenowo opcję noclegową, po drugie dają niepowtarzalną możliwość poznania ludzi z całego świata. Koszt za łóżko w dormie wieloosobowym waha się od €12 do €25. W bardziej popularnych miastach warto rezerwować noclegi z wyprzedzeniem, szczególnie w czasie różnorodnych imprez lokalnych i festiwali.

JEDZENIE

W opcji niskobudżetowej możemy sporo zaoszczędzić zaopatrując się w jedzenie w supermarketach. Jednak jeżeli chcemy naprawdę ‘posmakować’ Hiszpanii, koniecznie musimy spróbować jej lokalnej kuchni, która należy do najlepszych w Europie. Miejsca z założenia turystyczne bogate są w lokale oferujące nie zawsze najlepsze, za to często kosztowne potrawy, dlatego warto szukać na swojej drodze lokalnych knajpek i restauracji.

Szukając obiadu, rozglądajmy się za menú del día, czyli daniem dnia, które z reguły jest rozpisane na tablicach przed lokalami. W tej opcji możemy zamówić smaczny lokalny posiłek (czasem kilka do wyboru) składający się z zupy/przystawki i dania głównego, deseru i napoju już od €8-10. Podobny obiad w opcji tradycyjnej może kosztować ok €30-40. Menú del día serwowane jest w godzinach popołudniowych, zależnie od lokalu między 13:00 a 16:00.

Będąc w Hiszpanii, koniecznie należy spróbować tradycyjnych potraw tego kraju jak np. paellę, churros z czekoladą domowej roboty, czy różnego rodzaju ryb. Moją ulubioną jest grilowana lub pieczona dorada – biała, delikatna ryba śródziemnomorska, która nie bez powodu była ulubionym gatunkiem starożytnych Rzymian. Hiszpanie są również mistrzami przyrządania wszelkich owoców morza jak mątwie czy kałamarnice. Więcej w poście o kuchni kanaryjskiej, która jest zbliżona do kuchni Hiszpanii kontynentalnej.

Należy też pamiętać, że wyprawa do Hiszpanii nie będzie 100-procentowa, jeżeli nie spróbujemy tapas, czyli małych przekąsek między posiłkami. Wywodzą się one co prawda z Andaluzji, ale cieszą się popularnością w całej Hiszpanii. Więcej informacji tutaj.

KOMUNIKACJA

Komunikowanie się z zagranicą w Hiszpanii nie nastręcza większych problemów. Kafejki internetowe są szeroko dostępne, a ceny internetu wahają się od €0,50 do €2 euro za godzinę, zależnie od miejsca. Niestety jakość niektórych pozostawia wiele do życzenia – zdarzyło mi się kilka razy korzystać z komputera w kafejce, który notorycznie się zawieszał i wyłączał, kompletnie uniemożliwiając korzystanie z internetu. Jeżeli dysponujemy własnym laptopem, w większych miastach można korzystać z wi-fi – zarówno w kawiarniach jak i hotelach czy hostelach.

Gdy zależy nam na kontakcie telefonicznym, polecam tzw. call shopy (po hiszpańsku ‘locutorio’), które oferują dość korzystne ceny rozmów zagranicznych. Gdy planujemy dłuższy pobyt i nie chcemy by nasz budżet zbytnio ucierpiał przez koszty roamingu, warto na czas pobytu zakupić kartę startową którejś z lokalnych sieci komórkowych. Najpopularniejsze sieci w Hiszpanii do Movistar, Vodafone i Orange. Ja korzystałam z usług sieci Lebara Movil, która oferuje tanie rozmowy zagraniczne.

JĘZYK

Jak wiadomo urzędowym językiem Hiszpanii jest kastylijski, zwany również hiszpańskim, który jest jednocześnie najbardziej rozpowszechnionym językiem w tym kraju. W rejonach wybrzeża wschodniego – w Katalonii, Walencji i na Balearach – obok kastylijskiego używa się również katalońskiego. Poza tym wśród lokalnych języków wymienić należy galicyjski w Galicji i baskijski w Kraju Basków.

Angielski jest powszechnie używany w miejscach skupiających młodych ludzi z całego świata, czyli np. hostelach młodzieżowych – tutaj z reguły spokojnie załatwimy wszystko w tym języku.

Wybierając się natomiast w dłuższą podróż po Hiszpanii, warto zaopatrzyć się w dobre rozmówki oraz znajomość podstawowych zwrotów komunikacji codziennej w języku hiszpańskim, co znacznie może ułatwić nam podróżowanie, szczególnie po mniej turystycznych rejonach. Hiszpanie, bowiem, szczególnie starsi słabo mówią po angielsku, więc może okazać się, że kupienie biletu czy zamówienie posiłku w restauracji jest nie lada problemem. Za to bardzo pozytywnie odbierana jest choćby podstawowa znajomość języka świadcząca o zainteresowaniu krajem i jego kulturą.

WARTO ZOBACZYĆ…

  • Występ flamenco w którymś z lokalnych barów (warto podpytać Hiszpanów, unikajmy typowo komercyjnych barów nastawionych na turystów)
  • Mercados, czyli hale targowe znajdujące się we wszystkich większych miastach kraju, gdzie można zakupić niespotykane u nas gatunki ryb, owoców morza, szynek, itp.
  • Któryś z lokalnych festiwali, których pełno w całej Hiszpanii. Aktualny kalendarz można znaleźć tutaj.

UWAGA NA…

  • Kradzieże, szczególnie w dużych, popularnych turystycznie miastach jak Madryt czy Barcelona, w których kieszonkowcy tak skutecznie opanowali swój fach, że wiele ofiar orientuje się dopiero przy jakimś zakupie, że straciło portfel z gotówką i kartami płatniczymi. Szczególną ostrożność należy zachować na popularnych ulicach ‘zakupowych’ jak Gran Via w Madrycie czy La Rambla w Barcelonie, które są rajem dla wyspecjalizowanych złodziejaszków.
  • Sjestę, czyli kilkugodzinną drzemkę w środku dnia, na czas której sklepy i zakłady pracy zostają zamknięte na ok. 4 godziny, z reguły między 13:00 a 17:00. Ten osobliwy zwyczaj hiszpański, choć bardzo ciekawy, może skutecznie pokrzyżować plany aktywnych turystów, więc przy planowaniu zwiedzania należy wziąć pod uwagę, że wiele rzeczy nie będziemy w stanie załatwić w czasie wypoczynku Hiszpanów.
  1. Słyszałam wiele pozytywnych opinii na temat Hiszpanii🙂 Za rok planuję wybrać się tam na obóz ;]

    • add
    • Lipiec 6th, 2012

    ja kilkakrotnie byłam w Portugalii- ludzie otwarci i komunikatywni, z powodzeniem porozumiesz się po angielsku z prawie każdym poniżej 40tki i po francusku powyżej. Portugalczycy mają amerykańske filmy w TV z podpisani a nie z dubingiem, więc miewają dużo! lepszy, zrozumialszy akcent niż Hiszpanie. Oprócz tego cenowo zbliżone do Polski, pyszna kuchnia, piękne plaże choć ocean zimny. Ja polecam!

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