W pogoni za zoltym tramwajem – Lizbona

Po wielu mniejszych i wiekszych miasteczkach i miescinach trafilysmy w koncu do stolicy Portugalii, by nacieszyc sie zoltymi tramwajami, zobaczyc slynne windy Lizbony i te waskie zabytkowe ulice o ktorych rozpisuja sie przewodniki.

Polozony pomiedzy historycznymi dzielnicami CHIADO i BAIRRO ALTO hostel, w ktorym zatrzymalysmy sie przez trzy dni pobytu w Lizbonie okazal sie idealnym punktem wypadowym do zwiedzanie miasta. I to chyba wlasnie te dzielnice ujely mnie najbardziej – labirynty waskich uliczek ze stromymi podejsciami, kamienice wylozone slynnymi portugalskimi AZULEJOS i babcie wygladajace z nudow przez okna – tak zapamietam stara czesc Lizbony. No i oczywiscie ten slynny zolty tramwaj numer 28, przejazdzka ktorym wpisze sie na stale w moj obraz Lizbony. Tak sobie pomyslalam, ze w wiekszosci innych miast taki zrujnowany srodek komunikacji nie mialby prawa bytu – bo maly, bo stary, bo niestabilny i niebezpieczny. Ale w Lizbonie tym tramwajem jezdza codziennie setki ludzi do pracy, do szkoly, na zakupy. Zolty tramwaj jest symbolem miasta i doskonale sie wpisuje w jego krajobraz, szczegolnie starych zabytkowych dzielnic.

Jednym z miejsc, przez ktore przejezdza zolty tramwaj jest ALFAMA, stara dzielnica rybacka pelna historii i zabytkowej architektury, ponoc dusza Lizbony. Spacer waskimi brukowanymi ulicami doprowadza nas do Castelo Sao Jorge, ktory oprocz ciekawej lekcji historii oferuje doskonala panorame widokowa miasta. Spogladamy na Lizbone z gory, by podziwiac lizbonska rzeke Tag, Praca de Comercio, ktorym wczesniej przechodzilysmy oraz tysiace blisko osadzonych kamienic z ciemnoczerwonymi dachami. Widok jest niezapomniany i pokazuje troche barwniejszy obraz miasta, wychodzacy poza stare dzielnice CHIADO, BAIRRO ALTO i ALFAMA.

Stad takze podziwiamy BAIXE – inna zabytkowa dzielnice miasta charakteryzujaca sie specyficznym prostokatnym ukladem ulic oraz slynnym Lukiem Triumfalnym pelniacym role bramy dzielnicy. Pelno tu zabytkowych budowli, sklepikow, kafejek i restauracji. Taka tam centralna dzielnica miasta. I oczywiscie jak wszystko w Lizbonie zabytkowa.

Nowoczesniejsze widoki oferuje spacer AVENIDA DE LIBERDADE – szeroka ulica pelna drzew i ogrodkow kwiatowych prowadzaca prosto do majestycznego pomnika Pombala –  jednego z najslynniejszych portugalskich mezow stanu. Avenida ukazuje troche inne miasto – buzujace, nowoczesne, ale nie jestem pewna czy jest to obraz Lizbony jaki chce zapamietac. Mysle, ze te stare zabytkowe dzielnice miasta, nawet z ich brudem i zaniedbaniem sa ciekawszym elementem miasta. Miasta ktore wydaje mi sie troche leniwe, troche jakby zatrzymalo sie kilkaset lat temu i wszystkimi mozliwymi sposobami bronilo sie przez postepem i nowoczesnoscia.

Dzielnica, ktora troche obala mit leniwego miasta jest BELEM, polozone na zachodnim krancu Lizbony. Jest to miejsce niezwykle wazne z punktu widzenia historii Portugalii – to stad Vasco da Gama wyplynal na podboj Indii. Belem jest zatem miejscem naznaczonym odkryciami geograficznymi – od Klaszoru Hieronimitow z Muzeum Zeglugi i planetarium do promenady nad rzeka Tag pelnej symboli odkryc geograficznych z posadzka szczegolowo przedstawiajaca mapy podbojow.

Ostatni dzien w Lizbonie postanawiamy spedzic inaczej. Miala byc Sintra z jej historycznymi budowlami ale dochodzimy do wniosku, ze czas zboczyc z wytyczonego szlaku przewodnikow i zabytkow. Bierzemy pociag do pobliskiego CASCAIS – spokojnego miasteczka przypominajacego troche pelen turystow kurort nadmorski. W poblizu Citadeli (za darmo!) wypozyczamy rowery i udajemy sie osmiokilometrowa promenada wzdluz wybrzeza na slynna plaze surferow PRAIA DO GUINCHO. I rzeczywiscie fale sa imponujace, z czego korzystaja lokalni surferzy i przybysze. Stad spogladamy na oddalony o kolejne 10 km dumny i majestaryczny CABO DE ROCA – najbardziej wysuniety na zachod przyladek Europy. Piekna sloneczna pogoda i otaczajace krajobrazy sprawiaja, ze ciezko rozstac sie z tym miejscem. Jednak czas wracac do zatloczonej Lizbony, by wziac pociag  na poludnie Portugalii.


  1. Też jestem ogromną fanką lizbońskich tramwajów, uważam, że są przeurocze🙂
    I widzę, że nad klifami kwitną już te piękne kwiaty – taki wiosenny dywan to coś niesamowitego!

    • Anna
    • Kwiecień 24th, 2010

    Tak, musze przyznac, ze wycieczka tramwajem byla wielka frajda, ale wciaz nie moge sie nadziwic jak to w ogole dziala. Takie male i klekocace a codziennie sluzy setkom ludzi… Taki lizbonski ewenement. A wybrzeze i owszem wyglada niesamowicie, az nie chcialo sie wracac do zatloczonej Lizbony. Pozdrawiam!

  2. No właśnie, staruszki, a ciągle świetnie działają! Jest jedna linia, 15 do Alges, gdzie jeżdżą nowoczesne tramwaje. I mam nadzieję, że pozostanie jedyna… bo to już nie ten klimat🙂

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